The Most Beautiful Drive in Texas
West Texas is hiding one of the greatest road trips in America and most people drive right past it.
There are certain drives that change the way you see a place. These are the ones people plan entire trips around, the ones that end up in travel magazines and bucket lists. But there’s a road out in the far reaches of West Texas that belongs in that conversation and almost nobody outside of the region knows it exists.
It’s called FM 170, also known as River Road. And, if you ever find yourself anywhere near West Texas, it is the one thing you absolutely cannot skip.
FM 170 runs roughly 120 miles through one of the most remote and rugged stretches of land in the entire country. It connects the border town of Presidio in the west to the eclectic outpost of Terlingua in the east, cutting straight through the heart of Big Bend Ranch State Park along the way.
The road earns its nickname by doing exactly what it sounds like, hugging the Rio Grande for mile after mile, with Mexico sitting just on the other side of the water. At points you can look across the river and see another country so clearly it almost feels surreal. It’s one of those rare drives where the road itself is the destination, not just the means of getting somewhere.
The landscape out here is constantly shifting. One moment you’re in wide open Chihuahuan Desert, the kind of flat, dusty expanse that stretches as far as the eye can see. Then the road starts to climb, winding up into dramatic rock canyons and mountain passes before dropping back down again. It will twist and turn, snaking around curves, and crests hills that reveal views so unexpected they almost don’t feel real. At the highest point on the drive, you can see both Texas and Mexico simultaneously; with the Rio Grande cutting through the valley below you.
Much of River Road runs directly through Big Bend Ranch State Park, and it is massive. The park covers over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, making it the largest state park in Texas, and one of the least visited, which is part of what makes it so special.
The park offers far more than just the scenic drive. There are 238 miles of multi-use trails for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. Primitive camping is available throughout the backcountry, and the remoteness of the location means the night skies out here are some of the darkest and most spectacular in the state. If you’re into astrophotography or just want to lie on the hood of your car and stare at the Milky Way, this is the place.
Along the road itself there are designated pull-offs and scenic overlooks that give you a chance to step out, breathe in the desert air, and take it all in. Do not rush past these as every single one of them is worth the stop.
River Road is remote in a way that most people aren’t prepared for. This isn’t a scenic drive with rest stops and coffee shops along the way. It’s an unforgiving West Texas wilderness, and it demands a little respect and preparation.
Gas: There are virtually no gas stations along the route. Fill your tank completely before you start, either in Presidio on the west end or Lajitas/Terlingua on the east end. You don’t want to run out of gas out here.
Water: Bring significantly more than you think you need. The desert heat is serious, especially in the summer months, and there are no services along the road.
Cell Service: It is essentially nonexistent for the majority of the drive. As much as I want to tell you that you don’t need cell service and to just “enjoy”, it’s important to prepare for as you go out and explore.
Timing: Give yourself more time than you think you’ll need. The drive itself can technically be done in an hour and a half, but if you’re stopping at overlooks, getting out to take photos, and actually soaking it in, plan for most of a day. You want to start early, especially in summer, to avoid the worst of the heat.
Night Driving: BE CAREFUL. There is usually wildlife on the road and the complete absence of lighting can make it dangerous after dark.
There’s something about River Road that’s hard to put into words until you’ve actually done it. It’s the kind of drive that slows you down in the best way, where you find yourself pulling over constantly, stepping out of the car, and just standing there taking it in. The scale of the landscape, the silence, the history, the feeling of being somewhere that hasn’t changed much in centuries: it all adds up to something that feels genuinely rare.
We live in a time where most scenic destinations are crowded, over-documented, and carefully managed for mass tourism. River Road is none of those things. It is raw and quiet and almost entirely overlooked. You might pass a handful of cars the entire drive. You might pass none.
If you’re planning a West Texas trip, whether you’re coming for Big Bend, Marfa, or just passing through build River Road into your itinerary.
You won’t regret it.
Living the dream,
Your Local Friend in Terlingua